TUTORIAL: EXPERIMENTAL CUT CREASE

Hey everyone I’m back with another experimental tutorial playing around with colour and shape. I wouldn’t wear this look every day but to bring an edge to a very simple outfit this bold makeup look could do the trick!

I’m going to jump straight into the tutorial and of course first step is brows. Filling them in with a mix of Anastasia Beverly Hills dip brow and brow wiz both in dark brown, further tidying them up with MAC Studio Finish concealer and setting into place using Nyx Control Freak eyebrow gel.unnamed-3

 

For this look I completed my eyes first before any base makeup as this look involved glitter on the lower lash line. So I evened out my eyelids using the same concealer and setting into place using my face powder. All the shadows for this look came from the Morphe 35P palette, I love this palette as it has a mix of warm neutrals and deep purples which helps for creating a majority of looks! I’m going to number the shades as this will make the tutorial easier to follow.

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When I roughly planned this look as I saw the palette I knew I wanted a warm crease, cool toned lid colour and a pop on the lower lash line. So I took large fluffy brushes not focusing too hard on a precise shape and took a mix of the warm tones in the 35P palette. To begin I blended a warm peach (1) throughout my crease and up to my brow bone. Then I took a more mid toned orange (2) and focused this closer to my crease. I started to treat this eye as I would a warm smokey eye and started to switch to warm browns so I took a mix of two neutral browns (3) and again focused this more in my crease and started to lightly wing this out but only in a rough shape as concealer would clean this up a treat. To deepen further and create a bolder wing for my cut crease I took a chocolate brown (4) and used a more precise blending brush to do so. At first I wasn’t sure whether I wanted to add black but I took a tiny but of the darkest brown (which is almost black)(5) on an angled brush and drew a faint line and slowly built up this intensity for the time being. I wanted the cut crease to be quite a graphic look so I didn’t blend this darkest colour that much to keep a sharp contrast.

To clean up the crease and cut the lid I took the Sigma Flat Definer brush and the same MAC concealer as it is super full coverage and created my wing. This took a long time for me to master as I have super hooded eyes but I’ve found a shape that I can deal with. I lay down the concealer one eye at a time so whilst the concealer is still tacky I apply my lid colour and for this I took a packing brush and the metallic lavender colour (6) and I slowly pushed this into the lid space and if any transferred into the crease took the same angled brush with a bit more of the darkest brown shade to clean up.

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For my eyeliner I’m using the Anastasia Beverly Hills Waterproof Creme Colour in Jet and I follow the line I made with the concealer earlier on and this makes applying the eyeliner so much easier! I then tight-lined using Nyx Tres Jolie gel eyeliner pencil and moved onto the lower lash line. I first lined my waterline and pushed into my lashes using the MAKE UP FOR EVER Aqua XL black pencil and I smudged this out using a pencil brush from Makeup Geek.

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To blend out the black a bit more I used a couple of the peachy shades from the 35P palette again to match the crease and then to intensify the black on the lower lash line I packed on Coloured Raine’s Black Moon eyeshadow two thirds of the way across leaving the inner third blank. I then took a synthetic Nyx eyeliner brush and a tiny bit of the Nyx Glitter primer and placed this on the inner third of my lower lash line and then went on top of the primer with Nyx Face and Body glitter in Blue and tried not to go too over board to avoid fall out when blinking.

That’s it for eyes for the moment so onto my base I’m using my go to base a mix of Benefit Porefessional and MAC Strobe cream in Peachlite, and after this I’m going in with a mixture of foundations, still always using my Revlon Colourstay for normal to dry skin and Rimmel Lasting Finish foundation. The lightest shade in this foundation is way too dark for me, and I knew it would be when I bought it, but because of the Nyx Foundation Mixer in white I thought I could make this work because I’ve heard nothing but good things about this foundation, but I can say I’m not sold on this foundation. I’ve been testing it for about a month now and the texture doesn’t sit right on my skin it emphasises all the lumps and bumps and doesn’t set very well so I will continue to try and use this up but I won’t be featuring this on my blog again any time soon. For concealer I’m using my holy grail mix of Collection Lasting Perfection concealer and Urban Decay Naked Skin concealer.

I only fancied using a cream bronzer for this tutorial instead of all my cream products so took some Chanel Soleil Tan de Chanel on the temples, cheekbones, nose, chin and under my jaw using the Real Techniques sculpting brush and blending in with my Real Techniques Miracle Complexion sponge.

 

I then set my face the usual way with my damp sponge and a mix of MAC Mineralize Skinfinish Natural in Light and MAC Studio Fix and on any areas that need a little bit more coverage I go in with the same powders and a flat top face brush to pounce this into the skin, I also blend these powders down my neck with a large powder brush also from Real Techniques.

For contour I’m using the Anastasia Beverly Hills Contour kit and the shade Fawn and bronzing up the skin with Bobbi Brown Golden Light. For blush I’m using a new product which I’ve heard about for a long time but never tried. MAC blushers have always been rated online and I finally picked one up in the shade Desert Rose which is a pale plum colour and works really well in the winter to add a flush of colour to the cheeks that makes you look fresh and youthful.

 

Next highlighting with my new holy grail, Jeffree Star Cosmetics Ice Cold Skin frost, also placing this on my inner corners and brow bone and on the highest points of my cheekbones adding a touch of the I Heart Makeup Blushing Heart in Peachy Pink kisses as this has a high shine finish.

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Finishing off the eyes with a few generous coats of the Marc Jacobs Velvet Noir mascara and before lips spritzing my face with MAC Fix Plus to bring some moisture back to my skin.

Again for lips I’m using Jeffree Star Cosmetics Gemini as I find this goes with most looks and as Orange and Blue are complimentary colours, the orange/warm tone to the lipstick really helps the blue glitter pop!

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That’s a wrap on another tutorial I hope you all enjoyed another little experimental look, I’m having quite a few various ideas for eye looks at the moment and have a couple in the works so keep an eye out for a few more tutorials over the next week or so, I possibly might just be showing the eye look as my base is staying the same for the time being whilst my skin has been having a few breakouts thanks to trying out new foundations at the same time. This should allow me to publish more tutorials as they are shorter and more concise. Let me know if you think this is a good idea or not and I’ll see you at my next post!

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